![]() Use your motor boat holes to pull the first sheet of plywood tight to the transom skin. Use 1/4" Luan plywood and slow set hardner for your epoxy. Once you have all of the wood out and the remaining glass skin clean you will then cut plywood to fit the transom and start laying it up using epoxy and one layer of matter between layers of plywood. Dig out every single bit of the wood coreing in the transom, but leave the outside skin alone. Re: Transom Replacement - Any help gratefully receivedÄon't cut off the back of the boat - if you try to do it that way you may as well go ahead and junk the boat now, save yourself some time.Remove the liner and then remove the inside skin of the transom. I realise that this is well trod ground, but having got this far, I don't want to make a major mistake now and I'm hoping you good folks can help out. He says - don't do it under any circumstances.I have restricted access from the inside, but I'm worried that going that route will be like "trying to paint my lounge through the letter box" and I'll not acheive the structural integrity I want.Does anyone have any experience of literally cutting away the rear section of the hull and glassing it back in ? How was it for you ? What technique did you use to stitch the section back in (woven glass tape ? / Mat ? / or what ?) How did you manage getting an oversize piece of plywood into the hole ?Has anyone ever tried a substitute for Sealcast ? From what I can see it's simply thin polyester resin with a bulking agent to reduce the weight. But a post from JasonJ a few down now has me worried. I've ordered up some marine ply and epoxy and intend to demount the motor and cut away the outside skin 2" away from the edge and replace the entire transom, then glass the cut section back in.I'm pretty handy with glass and I can always respray this section of the hull, because it's painted, I don't have to worry too much about gelcoat matching. Probably the hull had been lying on one side in the water for a while as the port side is reasonably sound.Having already mounted the motor and resprayed the hull, my 1st choice was to use a product like Sealcast, but I spoke to them and they don t have any distribution in Europe (yet).So. nothing new here then I was getting very excited about getting nearer the water until I took the precaution of cutting away a small area of glass INSIDE the transom and found that one side of the transom is completely shot. As someone above stated, the ACBS is the main go to place for info and worth of wood boats.Usual story, bought an old 15ft speedboat hull for $200 and I'm now up to $5,000 including s/h engine, new floor, instruments etc. That alone should get you over the hump, if you find the right person. ![]() Lots of wood boat folks like that 17' boat. Resorters used to be a well sought after boat. The good thing is that people interested in a wood boat love the old Century and Chris Craft inboards. Between the cost of materials and my labor to refurbish it, I lost my ass on it. When I sold mine, the non period E-Tec was the only thing that got the $$$'s. Not many people interested in them because of the work. They are a special niche market, for sure. As stated, condition is everything with wood boats. If it's been sitting for 10 yrs + the deck probably should be re-varnished. Maybe it's the lighting in the photos, the sides look good, but the deck looks a bit cloudy. Reason I sold mine, I got tired of the maintenance. ![]() Almost everything that touches it, puts a scratch on it. Once you get it done, there is a lot of maintenance. It went from shit to luster, but it took over a year, working on it almost every night after work and weekends. If you haven't done one, you can't imagine how much work they are. Start by simply Googling 1957 Century Resorter. Basically young and unskilled, I got to sand, and sand, and sand some more and as he'd often remind me when he perceived " An Attitude", if you want to go skiing next summer, keep sanding. ![]() I write this having been a slave labor child to my father's love of wood performance boats. ![]() The engine rebuild isn't where the vast amount of $$ can be spent on one of these type boats. It doesn't sound like the bottom was "West System Epoxy" bottom treated, which makes the boat far easier to live with. What it's worth, could be $ 20 or more K, if it's been fully refurbished and ready to launch, or $ 2,500 if it's in need of a lot of wood re-working and it's warped. Also, under what conditions it's been stored, dry or humid ? Hulls dry out and the wood shrinks, they do this anytime they're out of water, but long duration layups can severely dry the wood, which may then require re-packing and re-caulking. Often wood boat suffer warping depending on how well they're supported on the trailer during layup. Condition, condition, condition !!! Hull would have to be inspected for dry rot, or any structural issues. ![]()
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